COOBER PEDY

sa map

Coober Pedy is a strange town. Half the population live underground and most of what appears above ground is weirdly tacky.

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The landscape is sparse, barren and pink

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Tourist attractions and opal sales blend into crass, desperate attempts to extract money from passing visitors

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Underground houses are burrowed into the hillsides around the town

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It is a strange sight, TV antennas, satelite dishes and solar heaters apparently mounted on the ground.

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Makeshift structures of corrugated iron and junk are everywhere.

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Trashed cars abandoned on the streets don’t look at all out of place

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Architecture leans more towards functional than decorative.

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The odd time function gives way to decoration the theme of over the top tackiness still triumphs.

The town is incredibly unique and, after a while, the trashy mixture of junk, dirt and recycled tin becomes oddly appealing.

OUTBACK WORKSHOP 4

PURNULULU – BUNGLE BUNGLES

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Our group flew to the Bungle Bungles from Kununurra in three small planes

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From the air the beehive domes form an amazing labyrinth.

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On the ground we met our guides and were taken by 4WD truck to a couple of interesting walks

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At ground level, the domes are massive

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Cathedral walk took us into an enormous cavern with a small opening at the top. Wet season run off pours in and fills the pool and creek. The acoustics in this cavern were incredible, and well demonstrated by our flute playing guide.

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Picanini Creek

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Horizontal stripes in the sandstone are formed by bacteria growing in the alternate, more porous, layers. As the bacteria dies the stone turnes black. The orange stripes are oxidised layers of white sandstone.

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As we waited to fly back, a taxiing plane smothered us in dust – the disadvantage of an outdoor air terminal.

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The country between Kununurra and the Bungle Bungles is magnificent. Flying back as the sun was setting was just amazing.

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Argyle diamond mine

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Lake Argyle and the Carr Boyd Ranges

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Sunset landing

MINING MACHINERY

Ranger Uranium Mine, in the heart of Kakadu National Park, has the weird attraction of a car accident. It’s all very horrific but you just can’t help looking!

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The dirt from an enormous hole in the ground satisfies 10% of  the worlds hunger for uranium. They dig it up, crush it, mix it with various toxic chemicals (ammonia, sulphuric acid, kerosene), then , once separated and purified, pack it into 44 gallon drums and sell them for over half a million bucks a pop.

All this so the Chinese and Indians can have two door fridges, plasma TV’s and  air conditioned shopping centres,  just like we do.

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As crazy as all this is, I just cant help admiring the technology and machinery that brings it all about. One small human can sit in a giant loader and, with the assistance of hundreds of litres of burning diesel, pick up 30tons of earth in one scoop and drop it in the back of a monstrous truck. These really are awesome machines and they make great painting subjects.

These sketches were done with Indian Yellow, Alizarin Crimson, Ultramarine Blue and White Gouache. Burnt Sienna Ink and charcoal pencil provided most of the fine lines.

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I liked the way this machine was resting, with it’s bucket on the ground like a big, tired elephant

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These trucks carry 100ton of dirt, in and out of the pit all day long. Even so, they look over designed – as if nothing could ever stop them.

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I used bleeding ink lines, rough charcoal marks and washes of dirty white gouache to try and get the smell of grease and diesel into this sketch.

It seems weird I guess, sitting in one of the most beautiful places on earth, painting trucks and graders!  It’s a lot of fun though.