MOUNTAINS OF IRON

KARIJINI NATIONAL PARK

www.johnlovett.com (opens in a new window)

karijinimap

The Karijini landscape is dominated by the Hamersley Ranges. These are probably the oldest mountains on earth, the rocks dating back 2,500 million years. Driving through the Hamersleys is unique and beautiful. The undulating hills are covered with spinifex and broken by exposed weathered faces of deep red rock.

IMGP9952

IMGP0014

IMGP0200

.

Cutting through the landscape are numerous gorges. Some are accessed by a short walk, others require climbing and scrambling over rocks and ledges, and some can only be reached with ropes and climbing equipment.

IMGP0062

IMGP0046

Some of the gorges narrow down to passages just wide enough for a person to squeeze through

IMGP0144

Others are broad and open with clear pools at the bottom

IMGP0154

IMGP0182

Looking down into the deeper gorges is an awesome sight. The surrounding country is undulating and fairly unspectacular, but the gorges seem to drop way below the surrounding landscape.

IMGP0224

Passing sculptors have installed some impressive structures using just rocks and gravity.

IMGP0258

IMGP0342

IMGP0397

Waterfalls and waterholes are found throughout the gorges

IMGP0405

The water is usually freezing cold but, somehow, backpackers seem to be tolerant to near freezing water

IMGP0422

IMGP0435

Whistling Kite – Pentax K20D 18 -250mm lens

IMGP0324

Scattered through the gorges are veins of blue asbestos. The Wittenoom and Yampire gorges have been closed because of the high concentration of asbestos

IMGP0318

IMGP0570

.

KARIJINI VISITORS CENTRE

IMGP0083

Architect John Nicholes designed the Karijini Visitors Centre to weather into the landscape. Most of the exterior of the structure is built from heavy welded steel panels. These are acid washed to rust, echoing the iron ore outcrops of the landscape.

IMGP0084

IMGP0089

It is an impressive building that also hints at the rusted remnants of the areas pastoral history.

IMGP9997

Old rusted Pilbra sheepyards, built from flattened oil drums

IMGP0091

Power is provided by a large solar array with a thumping big diesel generator, waiting for a rainy day.

GIBB RIVER ROAD

grrmap

The drive from Kununurra to Derby can be done via a thousand kilometre stretch of sealed road through Turkey Creek, Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing. The other option is the Gibb River Road –  seven hundred kilometres of dust and corrugations that link the bulk of the Kimberley cattle stations. This road also gives access to some incredibly beautiful gorges and waterholes and cuts through some of the most spectacular mountain ranges imaginable.

IMGP8798

The spectacular Cockburn Range skirts the northern end of the Gibb River Road.

IMGP8813

Catching the late afternoon sun in this area is something  special.

IMGP8817

The Pentecost River is the major river crossing along the Gibb River Road and the last to open after the wet. What appears to be a large white rock on the downstream side of the crossing is the roof of one of Home Valley’s Landcruisers.

IMGP8850

View towards the coast across the floodplains of the Pentecost River.

IMGP8844

Gibb River grader – no wonder the road is so rough!

IMGP8858

The Durack River is another of the many river crossings. At the end of the dry season it is reduced to a string of picturesque waterholes.

IMGP8865

Another victim of the corrugations. Heavy impact fractured the sidewall plies. Fortunately we spotted it before the tyre blew.

IMGP9116

Half way along the Gibb River Road is Mt. Barnett Roadhouse. From here a track leads in to Manning Gorge. A great spot to camp, swim and walk.

IMGP9052

Accessing the main Gorge requires swimming across the Manning Creek. White foam boxes are provided to transport clothes, cameras etc.

IMGP9089

IMGP9076

Manning Gorge is a large clear pool fed by a waterfall and surrounded by tall sandstone cliffs.

.

IMGP9241

Galvans Gorge is another beautiful, clear waterhole surrounded by sandstone walls. Clean water and no crocodiles make it great place to dive in and cool off.

IMGP9245

Wandjina paintings can be seen on the walls of the gorge.

.

IMGP9267

Further down the Gibb River Road is the turn off to Adcock Gorge. We camped there 27 years ago and the area was strewn with rubbish. No surprise, the station owners have stopped people camping there now.

IMGP9264

Deep, clear water – Adcock Gorge

.

IMGP9219

We found this old blue tongue trying to disguise himself as a rock on the road.

IMGP9121

.


Towards the Southern end of the Gibb River Road is the King Leopold Ranges Conservation Park. There is good camping at Silent Grove and, further up the track, Bell Gorge.

IMGP9285

The main pool and falls at Bell Gorge are reached by climbing over the escarpment and following markers down into the gorge.

IMGP9306

IMGP9283

IMGP9296

Bell Gorge was one of the few gorges to still have a fair flow of water over the falls this late (September) in the dry.

IMGP9415

The southern end of the Gibb River Road crosses the King Leopold Ranges before cutting through the Napier Range. Beyond the Napier Range is sealed road through to Derby, or turning left leads to Windjana Gorge