We wound our way up over the mountains, across the Atherton Tablelands and west to a waterhole on the other side of Georgetown. It felt good to leave the busyness of the coast and head inland. The smell of dust and dry grass in the night air is something else. We followed a rough track down beside a creek and found this amazing waterhole – camped the night and headed off early in the morning.
Category Archives: Queensland
TRAINS
There are some great old steam trains, pensioned off and parked in railway stations throughout Queensland. This one in Mareeba was loaded with coal and appeared to be still in working order.
Every Sunday they fire up this old engine. Everything had a thick coat of grease and from meters away there was a strong smell of heavy gear oil.
Every part of these old engines looks to be built to last forever.
The old steam trains look pretty impressive, but this famous old train , the Gulflander, looks plain weird – like a cross between a train and an old Morris van. It does a regular run between Croydon and Normanton in the Gulf. Its baby brother looks even weirder
Nothing cute about this baby.
NORTH QUEENSLAND COAST

Mission Beach
The beaches of North Queensland are the palm fringed, white sand, clear blue water type beaches you see on a postcard. That’s why it is impossible to find an uninhabited one unless you have a boat.
Cairns and Port Douglas have grown incredibly in the 10 years since we were here. All tourism based and very busy.

US Navy ship - Cairns
There were two awsome looking US warships visiting Cairns while we were there. 3,500 US sailors wandering around town having a great time.

US Troops sailing out of Cairns
We visited Green Island and on the way back one of the US ships was sailing out. What a neat sight as the sun was going down. The other ship had to wait till high tide as it only had 27 inches of water under the keel.

Green Island Rail
These little birds were all over Green Island. They are some kind of Rail but I couldn’t find out any details.
If you don’t want to wait for the ferry back to the mainland you can opt for the $300 Chopper

Green Island Chopper
After a few days in Cairns we decided to head west rather than going on up to Cooktown. The Coast was busy with school holidays we figured it would be slower and more relaxed over the mountains.
RAPIDS, RAINFORESTS AND RUBBER BOATS

Tully River
Fifty kilometres inland from Tully are the headwarters of the Tully river. A huge rainfall and a dam feeding a power station ensure a constant flow of water down a long series of rapids – the perfect setting for white water rafting.
The craze was started in the 70’s by a guy taking a few interested adventurers up to the head of the river in an old station wagon.

Tully Gorge Rafting
We drove up to the top of the gorge around 10:00am and saw 4 huge coaches unload a couple of hundred backpackers dressed in life jackets and helmets. The business sure has grown.

Down the Rapids
Tully Gorge has some fantastic rainforest. We saw a lot of Ullysis butterflies but were never quick enough to photograph one, so I will paint a word picture for you – They were very blue.

Rainforest Tully Gorge

Rainforest Undergrowth
WATERFALLS

Jourama Falls
Up in the mountains, between Ingham and Townsville, are some great waterfalls. Some of them spill into pretty spectacular rainforest, protected by National Park. Jourama Falls is a series of half a dozen waterfalls, dropping from the mountain top to the boulder strewn Jourama Creek below.

Jourama Creek

Strangler Fig - Jourama Creek
The water level in Jourama Creek can change quickly. The rocks are worn smooth and some coated with a slippery algae that makes staying upright difficult. There are some great swimming holes (if you dont mind numbingly cold water) and camping in the National Parks is excellent.

Dangerous wildlife photography
Birdlife in these rainforests is great, although photographing them from directly underneath is not a real good idea.

Murray Falls
Further north are Murray Falls, set in a similar pocket of rainforest with a couple of short access walks. The falls are surrounded by deceptively slippery rocks which have claimed a number of lives. This has prompted National Parks to restrict access to the immediate area. However, their boardwalks and viewing platforms provide excellent access without having to crawl over the rocks.

Murray Falls Boardwalk

Strangler Fig - Murray Falls
Wandering around in these rainforests with a 10mm lens is a lot of fun. All sorts of weird shapes and lines, and great colours to play around with.

Strangler fig roots

Weird granite slab
We discovered this massive granite slab perched on a collection of small rocks – obviously the work of aliens. Or maybe the trees did it?

Strangler fig holding rock
Further up Murray creek we found this big rock being gripped by a strangler fig, probably intending to balance it somewhere precarious to entertain humans

Defensive Green Ant
These little guys join leaves into a fist sized ball to build their nest. If the nest is threatened they all stand up in this aggressive pose to scare off the predator. Funny thing is, they don’t seem to bite. Aboriginal kids bite off and eat the green bulbous tail.
Winds, following a recent cyclone, have brought down a number of trees along the edge of the rainforest. The broken roots and tangled vines make interesting drawing subjects.

Rainforest Mushrooms
More weird rainforest stuff. These mushrooms pop up in clusters through the undergrowth. They seem to emerge from a shell like case that opens like petals. As appetising as they look, we resisted the temptation to barbecue them with our steak.
MIDGE POINT – where everyone owns a tractor
Big wet sky – Midge Point. We stayed with my cousin Brad and his wife Kimm for a few days. We caught fish in the creek, explored the beaches and headlands and met some of Brad and Kimm’s friends.
Midge Point is still a sleepy little holiday/fishing village. Everyone has a boat and tractor and the local tavern is the hub of social activity. The village is pretty well unspoiled. Most of the houses have no fences and less than half of them are permanently occupied.
Everyone in Midge Point has a tractor to cart their boat across the sand to the water. Most of them are fairly ancient. Occasionally they break down and, after a few days, sink beneath the sand – never to be seen again.
I found this old motorbike under the mangroves up the northern end of the beach. It looked like someone parked it there, went fishing and never came back.
Brad and Dianne on the beach near the crocodile hole
Great birdlife at Midge Point. These Blue Winged Kookaburras are the first bird you hear in the morning and the last in the evening. They have a weird broken laugh – like a normal Kookaburra that never quiet learned to do it properly.
In the middle of the night Curlews stalk the town. They have a mournful, whaling cry, stopping just before daylight. The locals call them murder birds
Brad’s mate Lee restored this fantastic old pearling lugger – “Centurion”. Built in Broome in 1955. 30 ton of solid, double planked Jarrah.
Lee, Dianne and Brad onboard Centurion. What a boat to be floating around the Whitsunday’s on!
Climbing Mt. Midge on the southern end of the beach was a bit of a task – no track and very steep. The view from the top was fantastic. I found out later there was a track leading up from the gentler sloping western side.
After saying goodbye to Brad and Kimm, we headed north, setting up camp on the Elliot River. I had an article to finish writing for International Artist Magazine and this was the perfect place to do it – quiet and isolated, with few distractions (although a strange place to be finishing a painting of an Italian waterfront!)
After finishing the article we continued north towards Townsville. We managed to find a swamp to camp in. It was infested with mosquitoes and sandflies and was a popular spot for the local midnight pig shooters – not a place we would rush back to.
Dianne enjoyed the challenging corrugations of the swamp roads to hone her cycling skills.
Not so good were the sandfly bites
CAPE HILLSBOROUGH
Cape Hillsborough is a small National Park at the southern end of the Whitsunday Islands. The main “resort” has camping, cabins and a caravan park. It is right on the beach and has some great walks.
Smalleys Beach is also part of the national park and has more pleasant, bush camping with fewer facilities and few people.
Weird rocks on Cape Hillsborough Beach
Weird animals on Cape Hillsborough Beach
This time of year in North Queensland is cane harvest time. These huge trailers haul the cut cane by road to the nearest rail siding. There it’s dumped into bins and pulled by train to the closest sugar mill. It seems, along all the back roads, you are either stuck behind a huge tractor or waiting for a half kilometre cane train to cross the road. Fortunately, the sugar that doesn’t find it’s way into little paper sachets for coffee shops, finds it’s way to Bundaburg to be turned into rum.