TIMBER, BRICKS AND TIN

GREAT NORTHERN HIGHWAY – Architecture

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The Great Northern Highway runs from Kununurra in the North of WA right down to Perth in the South. We rejoined the Highway at Newman and followed it south to just below Cue where we headed west to the coast.

There is some pretty impressive architecture along the way, particularly in the old gold mining towns. Here are some of the more quirky examples of buildings we encountered.

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Meekatharra open air picture theater.

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Ralph’s take away food – Meekatharra

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Sadly neglected example of asbestos sheeting at its best.

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Corrugated Iron opulence – Cue

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Thin House – Cue

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Great Fingall  mine office – Built by Italian stonemasons in 1902 and abandoned in 1918

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Three horse stable, Cue

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Unfortunately, the old hospital at Cue has been left to crumble to a pile of rubble. This building was in use up until 1942. I guess the local councils don’t have the funds to maintain these old buildings and, unless the State or Federal Government can be convinced of heritage value , their plight is doomed. Amazing, the destruction that can take place in less than 70 years.

BIG FLAT AND RED

GREAT NORTHERN HIGHWAY – Landscape

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Once the Hamersley Ranges are left behind, the landscape flattens into arid, semi desert. Red sand ridges and low saltbush take over, broken by the odd small jump up or dry salt flat. After a couple of months of stinking hot weather it was a welcome relief to encounter cloud and a few heavy downpours of rain. The skys were spectacular, the colours were  intensified by the wet and the smell of rain was fantastic. Ideal conditions for racing around taking photos.

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Further south, wildflowers began to appear

HIGHWAY RELICS

GREAT NORTHERN HIGHWAY – Vehicles

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Scattered along the highway are some interesting vehicles and impressive wrecks. Here are some that caught my eye.

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SNAPPY GUMS

Eucalyptus leucophloia

All across the Pilbra grows a small twisted eucalypt known as Snappy Gum.  So called because the dead branches snap cleanly across the grain when cracked across a rock or log. This makes them ideal for fire wood. The young trees are smooth and graceful, but as they age, develop into fantastic, knotted,twisted shapes. They are great fun to photograph, particularly with a 10mm lens. Here are some of my favorites.



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THE RED HIGHWAY – Nicholas Rothwell

There was a review of Nicholas Rothwell’s book “The Red Highway” in the Weekend Australian a month or so before we left home. I read the review and thought it would be an interesting book to read while traveling.
I carted the book all the way up the Queensland coast, across the gulf and up the Stewart Highway to Darwin, where I finally began to read it.
Coincidently, the opening chapters of the book are set in Darwin, so as we are wandering around Stuart Park, Nightcliff, the Military Museum, Knuckey Street, all these places started to emerge from the book. I was starting to wonder at times if I had been to places or had just read about them.
We left Darwin and wound our way across to the Kimberley, and so did The Red Highway. Familiar places like the Gibb River Road, Mt Elizabeth, Gogo Station, Fitzroy Crossing were all popping up in the text as we made our way through what was left of them. The book also touched on the life of Maxine McDonald, a Kimberley personality we had drinks with on the verandah of Fossil Downs in the early 80’s. It was all quiet amazing, a book with so many twists and turns triggered by chance and coincidence should coincide so closely with our travels.
Beyond the geographic movements of The Red Highway are the mental dips and peaks. Traveling for a long period of time through this country seems to open up all sorts of strange mental doors. Rothwell sweeps you with him through these openings as he journeys from place to place.

There was a review of Nicholas Rothwell’s book “The Red Highway” in the Weekend Australian a month or so before we left home. I read the review and thought it would be an interesting book to read while traveling.

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I carted the book all the way up the Queensland coast, across the gulf and up the Stuart Highway to Darwin, where I finally began to read it.

Coincidently, the opening chapters of the book are set in Darwin, so as we were wandering around Stuart Park, Nightcliff, the Military Museum, Knuckey Street, all these places started to emerge from the book. I was starting to wonder at times if I had been to places or had just read about them.

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We left Darwin and wound our way across to the Kimberley, and so did The Red Highway. Familiar places like the Gibb River Road, Mt Elizabeth, Gogo Station, Fitzroy Crossing were all popping up in the text as we made our way through what was left of them.

The book also touched on the life of Maxine McDonald, a Kimberley personality we had drinks with on the verandah of Fossil Downs in the early 80’s. It was all quiet amazing, a book with so many twists and turns triggered by chance and coincidence should coincide so closely with our travels.

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Beyond the geographic movements of The Red Highway are the mental dips and peaks. Traveling for a long period of time through this country seems to open up all sorts of strange mental doors. Rothwell sweeps you with him through these openings as he journeys from place to place and engages with many interesting characters.

The Red Highway is a great story, made even better for me, running parallel with its movements across Australia.

MOUNTAINS OF IRON

KARIJINI NATIONAL PARK

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The Karijini landscape is dominated by the Hamersley Ranges. These are probably the oldest mountains on earth, the rocks dating back 2,500 million years. Driving through the Hamersleys is unique and beautiful. The undulating hills are covered with spinifex and broken by exposed weathered faces of deep red rock.

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Cutting through the landscape are numerous gorges. Some are accessed by a short walk, others require climbing and scrambling over rocks and ledges, and some can only be reached with ropes and climbing equipment.

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Some of the gorges narrow down to passages just wide enough for a person to squeeze through

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Others are broad and open with clear pools at the bottom

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Looking down into the deeper gorges is an awesome sight. The surrounding country is undulating and fairly unspectacular, but the gorges seem to drop way below the surrounding landscape.

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Passing sculptors have installed some impressive structures using just rocks and gravity.

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Waterfalls and waterholes are found throughout the gorges

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The water is usually freezing cold but, somehow, backpackers seem to be tolerant to near freezing water

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Whistling Kite – Pentax K20D 18 -250mm lens

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Scattered through the gorges are veins of blue asbestos. The Wittenoom and Yampire gorges have been closed because of the high concentration of asbestos

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KARIJINI VISITORS CENTRE

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Architect John Nicholes designed the Karijini Visitors Centre to weather into the landscape. Most of the exterior of the structure is built from heavy welded steel panels. These are acid washed to rust, echoing the iron ore outcrops of the landscape.

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It is an impressive building that also hints at the rusted remnants of the areas pastoral history.

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Old rusted Pilbra sheepyards, built from flattened oil drums

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Power is provided by a large solar array with a thumping big diesel generator, waiting for a rainy day.