SAMA SAJA

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The Darwin Museum has a fantastic display of Indonesian boats sailed to Australia by refugees. This little boat the “Sama Jasa” is only 5 meters long. It sailed across the sea with 6 people on board, landed on Bathurst Island, just off Darwin, in 1986. The crew were detained by customs, taken with the boat to Darwin and held in detention as illegal immigrants. How frustrating, after surviving a trip like that.

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Most of the boat is unpainted timber, the cabin is held together with rusty steel nails. The rigging is made from fencing wire. Below the waterline is coated with bitumen and lime.

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The Australian artist, Ian Fairweather, tells of a similar journey in his autobiography. In Darwin during the war, Fairweather built a raft out of aeroplane fuel tanks and drifted out of Darwin harbour late one night. After drifting for a week or so he washed up on an Indonesian beach where he was arrested by the authorities and sent straight back to Darwin.

DUYFKEN

Duyfken

Moored at the main marina in Cairns was a beautiful old sailing ship. We walked out to have a look and discovered it was a replica of a Dutch ship called the Duyfken. It was the first European ship to see Australia, and mapped part of the West coast of Cape York in the 1600’s.

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The original ship belonged to the Dutch East India Company and traded spices between Indonesia and Europe. The replica was built in Perth from identical materials to the original – even the sails were made from Scottish flax canvas.

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Bilge pumps made from timber and leather, just as they were in the original. I imagine, down in the bowels of the ship somewhere, would be some electric bilge pumps. If not, they must have a very sympathetic insurance company.

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The Captain’s cabin is about as luxurious as it gets onboard. Even he had to put up with a huge pole right in the middle of his room.

The crew got to sleep in the hold on the voyage from Europe but on the return journey, they had to make do with the open deck! Not much fun if you were seasick, under nourished, and constantly hounded by marauding pirates.

NORTH QUEENSLAND COAST

Mission Beach

Mission Beach

The beaches of North Queensland are the palm fringed, white sand, clear blue water type beaches you see on a postcard. That’s why it is impossible to find an uninhabited one unless you have a boat.

Cairns and Port Douglas have grown incredibly in the 10 years since we were here. All tourism based and very busy.

US Navy ship - Cairns

US Navy ship - Cairns

There were two awsome looking US warships visiting Cairns while we were there. 3,500 US sailors wandering around town having a great time.

US Troops sailing out of Cairns

US Troops sailing out of Cairns

We visited Green Island and on the way back one of the US ships was sailing out.  What a neat sight as the sun was going down. The other ship had to wait till high tide as it only had 27 inches of water under the keel.

Green Island Rail

Green Island Rail

These little birds were all over Green Island. They are some kind of Rail but I couldn’t find out any details.

If you don’t want to wait for the ferry back to the mainland you can opt for the $300 Chopper

Green Island Chopper

Green Island Chopper

After a few days in Cairns we decided to head west rather than going on up to Cooktown. The Coast was busy with school holidays we figured it would be slower and more relaxed over the mountains.

RAPIDS, RAINFORESTS AND RUBBER BOATS

Tully River

Tully River

Fifty kilometres inland from Tully are the headwarters of the Tully river. A huge rainfall and a dam feeding a power station ensure a constant flow of water down a long series of rapids – the perfect setting for white water rafting.

The craze was started in the 70’s by a guy taking a few interested adventurers up to the head of the river in an old station wagon.

Tully Gorge Rafting

Tully Gorge Rafting

We drove up to the top of the gorge around 10:00am and saw 4 huge coaches unload a couple of hundred backpackers dressed in life jackets and helmets. The business sure has grown.

Down the Rapids

Down the Rapids

Tully Gorge has some fantastic rainforest. We saw a lot of Ullysis butterflies but were never quick enough to photograph one, so I will paint a word picture for you – They were very blue.

Rainforest Tully Gorge

Rainforest Tully Gorge

Rainforest Undergrowth

Rainforest Undergrowth